Thursday, December 25, 2014
Tuesday, December 16, 2014
Friday, November 21, 2014
Small-breed Milk Cows
Miniature cows cost $1,800 to $3,500 depending on the size, markings and color. (A good standard Jersey sold as a family milk cow will cost $1,400 to $1,800.) Although small-breed cattle may cost more initially, they have some interesting advantages.
How small are small-breed Jerseys? What about miniature Holsteins?
Miniature cattle are classified in three categories as measured by height at the hip. These three categories are (1) midsize miniature, 42 to 48 inches; (2) standard miniature, 36 to 42 inches; and (3) micro-miniature, 36 inches and under. Small-breed cattle range in weight from 500 to 800 pounds. In general, a miniature milk cow is a third to half the size of the standard milk cow. I find that the 42- to 44-inch height is the most ideal for a family small-breed milk cow. Smaller cows may present logistical problems — you might have to sit on the floor to milk them.
How much milk do they give? Is it the same quality as from a standard cow?
A standard-size milk cow in peak production can give 6 to 10 gallons of milk per day. What do you do with that much milk? That’s the great thing about small-breed Jerseys. My cows give 1 to 1 1/2 gallons per milking. This level of production provides enough milk for drinking as well as for making some cheese and butter on a weekly basis, plus a little left over to give to a neighbor or friend. The quality of the milk is excellent, with butterfat content of about 4.9 percent. I store milk in gallon Mason jars. Each jar of milk will have about 3 inches of cream at the top.
How much feed do the small-breed cattle require?
That all depends on your philosophy concerning cattle. I believe that cattle are designed to be grass-fed. The rumen (one of a cow’s four stomachs) has bacteria that make the cow an efficient converter of cellulosic material into beef and milk. If grain is introduced into a cow’s diet, different bacteria are required for digestion.
Monday, November 3, 2014
Answers To Frequently Asked Questions About Alpacas
The rare and exotic alpaca is a creature of antiquity that is rapidly gaining popularity around the world. Highly prized for their luxurious coats, the alpaca has been considered a treasure of the Andes Mountains for over 6,000 years.
Alpacas are New World camelids and look like small llamas or long-necked camels with no humps, especially when recently sheared. They have shaggy necks and camel-like faces with thick lips, pronounced noses, and long ears. Their large, expressive eyes seem to exhibit both wisdom and childlike curiousity. Easily domesticated, alpacas are friendly, gentle and curious.
Alpacas are sheared annually, usually in the spring. The fiber may be sold and processed into rovings, spun into yarn, knitted or woven into fine fabrics. Each step adds more value to the product.
FAQs
Q: Is alpaca fiber really useful?
A: Alpaca fleece is a premium fiber and in high demand in the fashion industry. It is light-weight, warm, durable, soft and not itchy. Handspinners appreciate its quality, and handcrafters find it easy to work with. The natural hues are highly desirable, yet light colors readily accept dye. Many ranches have small stores selling yarn from their own animals or clothing and accessory products crafted from the fleece.
Q: What's the difference between alpacas and llamas?
A: Size and fiber quality. Llamas were primarily bred to be beasts of burden, and alpacas were bred primarily as fiber producers. An average alpaca stands 34"-36" at the withers (shoulders), whereas a llama stands 42"-48" at the withers. Alpacas weigh 125-175 pounds on average. An adult alpaca will generally produce 5-8 pounds of high-quality fiber each year.
Q: How long do alpacas live?
A: Alpacas have a life expectancy of 20-25 years.
Q: When do they reach breeding maturity?
A: Females reach breeding capability by 16-24 months. Males usually don't reach sexual potency until 24 months or more, with the rare one becoming potent as early as 12 months.
Q: What is the gestation period?
A: The gestation period is 11-1/2 months (~350 days).
Q: When do females stop breeding?
A: Females will breed throughout their life.
Q: How much do the babies weigh when born?
A: Alpaca crias average 18 lbs. Delivery usually occurs during the daytime and rarely requires the assistance of humans. Twins are extremely rare. Cria are weaned at about 6 months of age.
Q: What do alpacas eat?
A: The alpaca is an herbivore, grazing on grass and munching weeds, shrubs and trees. They process their food through 3 stomachs where special secretions enable the animal to absorb 50% more nutrients than sheep. Low-protien feed is recommended, with additional mineral supplements for females since they are generally pregnant and/or nursing.
Q: Do alpacas spit?
A: Not very often and only at each other, to signal displeasure at a herd member. A pregnant female 'spits off' an inquisitive male to let him know she is disinterested in his advances.
Q: What predators threaten alpacas?
A: The alpaca is prey to mountain lions, coyotes, bears, and other carnivores. In its native Andes, the alpaca's long neck helps spot predators among the rocks of the mountain slopes. On US ranchs, llamas, donkeys, and guard dogs such as Anatolian shepherd dogs are often used as herd guardians.
Q: What sounds do alpacas make?
A: Humming is the most common sound an alpaca makes, a sort of musical purring. The mom calls to her cria by humming, or they hum to communicate with each other within the herd.
When alarmed, a staccato tooting is made by one animal, then joined in by the rest of the herd as they focus attention in the direction of potential danger.
During breeding, which lasts from 20 to 30 minutes, a male trumpets or 'orgles' a lovesong to his mate.
Q: Is their manure good fertilizer?
A: Their manure is excellent fertilizer and may be applied directly to the garden without danger of 'burn.' Because alpacas are not nomadic, they mark their territory with their dung piles and usually wait to get to the designated area to defecate or urinate.
Q: Are alpacas environmentally friendly?
A: The alpaca's two-toed feet are soft pads protected on the top and sides by toe nails. Unlike hard hooves, they leave the terrain undamaged. And as they graze, they only nibble the top of the pasture grass rather than uprooting it. By rotating between two or three pastures, there is always a fresh supply of orchard grass.
Alpacas are New World camelids and look like small llamas or long-necked camels with no humps, especially when recently sheared. They have shaggy necks and camel-like faces with thick lips, pronounced noses, and long ears. Their large, expressive eyes seem to exhibit both wisdom and childlike curiousity. Easily domesticated, alpacas are friendly, gentle and curious.
Alpacas are sheared annually, usually in the spring. The fiber may be sold and processed into rovings, spun into yarn, knitted or woven into fine fabrics. Each step adds more value to the product.
FAQs
Q: Is alpaca fiber really useful?
A: Alpaca fleece is a premium fiber and in high demand in the fashion industry. It is light-weight, warm, durable, soft and not itchy. Handspinners appreciate its quality, and handcrafters find it easy to work with. The natural hues are highly desirable, yet light colors readily accept dye. Many ranches have small stores selling yarn from their own animals or clothing and accessory products crafted from the fleece.
Q: What's the difference between alpacas and llamas?
A: Size and fiber quality. Llamas were primarily bred to be beasts of burden, and alpacas were bred primarily as fiber producers. An average alpaca stands 34"-36" at the withers (shoulders), whereas a llama stands 42"-48" at the withers. Alpacas weigh 125-175 pounds on average. An adult alpaca will generally produce 5-8 pounds of high-quality fiber each year.
Q: How long do alpacas live?
A: Alpacas have a life expectancy of 20-25 years.
Q: When do they reach breeding maturity?
A: Females reach breeding capability by 16-24 months. Males usually don't reach sexual potency until 24 months or more, with the rare one becoming potent as early as 12 months.
Q: What is the gestation period?
A: The gestation period is 11-1/2 months (~350 days).
Q: When do females stop breeding?
A: Females will breed throughout their life.
Q: How much do the babies weigh when born?
A: Alpaca crias average 18 lbs. Delivery usually occurs during the daytime and rarely requires the assistance of humans. Twins are extremely rare. Cria are weaned at about 6 months of age.
Q: What do alpacas eat?
A: The alpaca is an herbivore, grazing on grass and munching weeds, shrubs and trees. They process their food through 3 stomachs where special secretions enable the animal to absorb 50% more nutrients than sheep. Low-protien feed is recommended, with additional mineral supplements for females since they are generally pregnant and/or nursing.
Q: Do alpacas spit?
A: Not very often and only at each other, to signal displeasure at a herd member. A pregnant female 'spits off' an inquisitive male to let him know she is disinterested in his advances.
Q: What predators threaten alpacas?
A: The alpaca is prey to mountain lions, coyotes, bears, and other carnivores. In its native Andes, the alpaca's long neck helps spot predators among the rocks of the mountain slopes. On US ranchs, llamas, donkeys, and guard dogs such as Anatolian shepherd dogs are often used as herd guardians.
Q: What sounds do alpacas make?
A: Humming is the most common sound an alpaca makes, a sort of musical purring. The mom calls to her cria by humming, or they hum to communicate with each other within the herd.
When alarmed, a staccato tooting is made by one animal, then joined in by the rest of the herd as they focus attention in the direction of potential danger.
During breeding, which lasts from 20 to 30 minutes, a male trumpets or 'orgles' a lovesong to his mate.
Q: Is their manure good fertilizer?
A: Their manure is excellent fertilizer and may be applied directly to the garden without danger of 'burn.' Because alpacas are not nomadic, they mark their territory with their dung piles and usually wait to get to the designated area to defecate or urinate.
Q: Are alpacas environmentally friendly?
A: The alpaca's two-toed feet are soft pads protected on the top and sides by toe nails. Unlike hard hooves, they leave the terrain undamaged. And as they graze, they only nibble the top of the pasture grass rather than uprooting it. By rotating between two or three pastures, there is always a fresh supply of orchard grass.
Wednesday, October 15, 2014
Types of Lettuce
Lettuce leaf color and texture vary with variety, but all types of lettuce grow best when the soil is kept constantly moist.
Loose-leaf varieties grow tender leaves in dense rosettes, but seldom form crisp inner heads. Some loose-leaf lettuce varieties have superior heat tolerance.
Butterheads and bibb types quickly form small heads of leaves with stout, crunchy ribs. Some varieties have superior cold tolerance.
Romaine lettuce has elongated leaves with stiff ribs. Romaines often tolerate stressful weather better than other types of lettuce.
Crisphead lettuce includes familiar iceberg types, as well as lush and leafy Batavian, or French Crisp, varieties which have great flavor and color, and are easy to grow.
When to Plant
In spring, sow lettuce in cold frames or tunnels six weeks before your last frost date. Start more seeds indoors under lights at about the same time, and set them out when they are three weeks old. Direct seed more lettuce two weeks before your average last spring frost date. Lettuce seeds typically sprout in two to eight days when soil temperatures range between 55 and 75 degrees.
In fall, sow all types of lettuce at two-week intervals starting eight weeks before your first fall frost. One month before your first frost, sow only cold-tolerant butterheads and romaines.
How to Plant
Prepare your planting bed by loosening the soil to at least 10 inches deep. Mix in an inch or so of good compost or well-rotted manure. Sow lettuce seeds a quarter of an inch deep and 1 inch apart in rows or squares, or simply broadcast them over the bed.
Indoors, sow lettuce seeds in flats or small containers kept under fluorescent lights. Harden off three-week-old seedlings for at least two or three days before transplanting. Use shade covers, such as pails or flowerpots, to protect transplants from sun and wind during their first few days in the garden.
Harvesting and Storage
Harvest lettuce in the morning, after the plants have had all night to plump up with water. Wilted lettuce picked on a hot day seldom revives, even when rushed to the refrigerator. Pull (and eat) young plants until you get the spacing you want. Gather individual leaves or use scissors to harvest handfuls of baby lettuce. Rinse lettuce thoroughly with cool water, shake or spin off excess moisture, and store it in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Lettuce often needs a second cleaning as it is prepared for the table.
Friday, September 19, 2014
6 Easy Ways to Store Garlic for the Winter
It’s that time of year when we gather up the harvest for the winter. People around the country are canning, freezing and dehydrating to get their harvest stored. I now have 10 pounds of fresh garlic that I need to preserve until the next fall harvest.
Ten Pounds of garlic equals about 75 heads and 600 cloves! That’s about 50 cloves per month or 1.5 per day.
1. Chop the cloves and refrigerate in olive oil.
2. Root cellar storage in a mesh bag will extend the season many months. Garlic stores like onions. If you have grown your own you can dry and braid them together. In fact, if you keep them in an airy, cool, dry and dark place, they will store until next harvest. This method also keeps them from sprouting.
3. Drying garlic couldn’t be simpler by using an oven or dehydrator. Be prepared for a fragrant house – then, choose firm, fresh cloves with no sign of bruising. Peel the cloves and cut them in half lengthwise. Dehydrating works best if you have uniform sizes so each piece will dry at the same rate. Garlic should be dried at 125 degrees until crisp. This may take up to two days at this low temperature. You can store the dried pieces in canning jars.
4. Grind dried garlic and make garlic powder. Once the pieces are completely dry use a coffee grinder and process until it is the consistence you want.
5. Pickle your Garlic in vinegar with these easy instructions from Growing a Greener World. Pickled garlic can be used just like fresh and will last at least a year once you have processed them in a water bath canner. Plus, as an added bonus, once you have eaten the garlic you can use the garlic flavored brine in salad dressings!
6. Freezing you garlic is probably the easiest method of all. Either follow directions in step number 1 above and freeze with oil or just pop the whole garlic bulb, unpeeled, into a paper bag and remove cloves as needed.
Monday, July 14, 2014
Top 10 Bunny Dangers
You and your rabbit are living blissfully together, happy and seemingly safe. But it doesn't take long for your bunny to get into trouble. As your bunny's parent, being vigilant will ensure a safe, happy rabbit, one that may live to be 10 to 12 years old.
Danger One. Chewing the Wrong Things
Rabbits love to chew because their teeth are always growing. They do not discriminate on what they chew, however. You must make sure that he is not chewing on things that can cause illness or death. Electrical cords, if bitten completely through while plugged in, will kill a rabbit. Carpet, if ingested in substantial quantities, can cause serious blockages, even death. Plastic, shower curtains, etc., all have potentially serious effects and must be kept away from your bunny. Insulate electrical wires with wire covers, found in the hardware sections of your local home improvement store. Cover all carpeting (if he is chews carpet) with sea grass mats, or safe things to chew (such as hay).
Danger Two. Heat
Whether your rabbit stays indoors or outdoors, heat and heat stroke kill many bunnies each year. When temperatures rise over 85 degrees Fahrenheit, you must be home or have someone there to cool off the room and the bunny by turning on air conditioners, fans or using frozen water bottles. Never leave a rabbit in direct sunlight. Always stop home to check on him on hot days. Never use an aquarium for housing as there is not enough ventilation. Remember, he is wearing a fur coat all the time.
Danger Three. Improper Diet
You have heard of killing with kindness, and we all have been guilty of that to a degree with our pets. With rabbits, however, a steady diet of the wrong things (treats, pellets with nuts, fruits, no hay) will eventually cause digestive upsets and shorten a rabbit's life. Rabbits need a substantial amount of hay (timothy, grass hay, oat hay), fresh greens and limited pellets as he gets older. Treats should be kept to a minimum. Rabbits that do not eat any hay have been known to only live a few years; they are often plagued by hairblocks, among other disorders. Try to find hay fresh, off-the-bale.
Danger Four. Bedding
Pine litter, cedar and clumping cat litter can be dangerous for your bunny. Pine and cedar give off "phenols," which are caused by the processing of the wood. Over time, this odor can harm the liver. Clumping cat litter, if eaten, can cause serious blockages. It is best to stick with paper-type litter such as Carefresh®, Cat Country®, Yesterday's News® or even straw on top of newspaper for his litter box. These paper litters and straw provide a soft resting area for your bunny as well.
Danger Five. Household Pets
The family dog or cat has killed many rabbits, indoors and outdoors. Never leave them together unsupervised. Always err on the side of caution, even if you believe your dog or cat would never hurt a fly.
Danger Six. Handling
Rabbits have very small bone structures compared to their body mass. Holding a bunny only by the scruff of the neck can result in a fractured back if the bunny tries to kick. Always support the rear legs when carrying your bunny, and never let young children pick up the rabbit.
Danger Seven. Undetected Illnesses
Outdoor rabbits are more prone to contracting ailments (bladder stones, hairblocks, sniffles) that go unnoticed. Some of these, such as bladder stones and hairblocks, can be exceptionally painful for your bunny if not detected. Always keep your bunny close to you, and check on his eating habits and droppings regularly. If you see any change, be swift to call your rabbit veterinarian as rabbits can become ill and die very quickly.
Danger Eight. Overpopulation
We all know the rabbit is the fertility symbol – and for good reason. A mature rabbit (doe) can have up to nine babies every 30 days with her male companion. These babies mature around 4 months, and they can also have babies. Doing the math, we have way too many rabbits and no homes. Spaying and neutering your bunny will prolong his/her life and prevent the all-too-common cancer associated with unaltered pets. Spaying/neutering can also save the lives of shelter bunnies, many of which are put to sleep each day due to the lack of homes.
Danger Nine. Outdoors
This is one of the most dangerous places for a domestic bunny. Outdoor bunnies live shorter lives than indoor ones due to weather, risk of illness, heat, drafts and predators. Rabbits loose in yards are susceptible to poisonous plants, escaping into traffic or being caught by the neighborhood dogs, cats, wildlife or taken by others.
Danger Ten. Predators
Rabbits are prey animals; that is, they are the ones preyed on by the carnivorous animals (raccoons, dogs, wolves, cats). Raccoons have been known to scare a rabbit to death just by crawling over his cage, never making contact. Your rabbit depends on you to keep him safe. Most outdoor cages are not adequate to protect a bunny from predators. If you can't bring your rabbit indoors (the safest thing), make sure to have a double-enclosed cage, or put your bunny's cage inside a barn or dog run at night, to thwart any attempt of predators from crawling over the cage, or from folks opening the cage and taking your bunny.
Following the above suggestions will ensure your bunny is as safe as possible, and you may find he lives up to 12 years, thanks to your love and diligence.
Danger One. Chewing the Wrong Things
Rabbits love to chew because their teeth are always growing. They do not discriminate on what they chew, however. You must make sure that he is not chewing on things that can cause illness or death. Electrical cords, if bitten completely through while plugged in, will kill a rabbit. Carpet, if ingested in substantial quantities, can cause serious blockages, even death. Plastic, shower curtains, etc., all have potentially serious effects and must be kept away from your bunny. Insulate electrical wires with wire covers, found in the hardware sections of your local home improvement store. Cover all carpeting (if he is chews carpet) with sea grass mats, or safe things to chew (such as hay).
Danger Two. Heat
Whether your rabbit stays indoors or outdoors, heat and heat stroke kill many bunnies each year. When temperatures rise over 85 degrees Fahrenheit, you must be home or have someone there to cool off the room and the bunny by turning on air conditioners, fans or using frozen water bottles. Never leave a rabbit in direct sunlight. Always stop home to check on him on hot days. Never use an aquarium for housing as there is not enough ventilation. Remember, he is wearing a fur coat all the time.
Danger Three. Improper Diet
You have heard of killing with kindness, and we all have been guilty of that to a degree with our pets. With rabbits, however, a steady diet of the wrong things (treats, pellets with nuts, fruits, no hay) will eventually cause digestive upsets and shorten a rabbit's life. Rabbits need a substantial amount of hay (timothy, grass hay, oat hay), fresh greens and limited pellets as he gets older. Treats should be kept to a minimum. Rabbits that do not eat any hay have been known to only live a few years; they are often plagued by hairblocks, among other disorders. Try to find hay fresh, off-the-bale.
Danger Four. Bedding
Pine litter, cedar and clumping cat litter can be dangerous for your bunny. Pine and cedar give off "phenols," which are caused by the processing of the wood. Over time, this odor can harm the liver. Clumping cat litter, if eaten, can cause serious blockages. It is best to stick with paper-type litter such as Carefresh®, Cat Country®, Yesterday's News® or even straw on top of newspaper for his litter box. These paper litters and straw provide a soft resting area for your bunny as well.
Danger Five. Household Pets
The family dog or cat has killed many rabbits, indoors and outdoors. Never leave them together unsupervised. Always err on the side of caution, even if you believe your dog or cat would never hurt a fly.
Danger Six. Handling
Rabbits have very small bone structures compared to their body mass. Holding a bunny only by the scruff of the neck can result in a fractured back if the bunny tries to kick. Always support the rear legs when carrying your bunny, and never let young children pick up the rabbit.
Danger Seven. Undetected Illnesses
Outdoor rabbits are more prone to contracting ailments (bladder stones, hairblocks, sniffles) that go unnoticed. Some of these, such as bladder stones and hairblocks, can be exceptionally painful for your bunny if not detected. Always keep your bunny close to you, and check on his eating habits and droppings regularly. If you see any change, be swift to call your rabbit veterinarian as rabbits can become ill and die very quickly.
Danger Eight. Overpopulation
We all know the rabbit is the fertility symbol – and for good reason. A mature rabbit (doe) can have up to nine babies every 30 days with her male companion. These babies mature around 4 months, and they can also have babies. Doing the math, we have way too many rabbits and no homes. Spaying and neutering your bunny will prolong his/her life and prevent the all-too-common cancer associated with unaltered pets. Spaying/neutering can also save the lives of shelter bunnies, many of which are put to sleep each day due to the lack of homes.
Danger Nine. Outdoors
This is one of the most dangerous places for a domestic bunny. Outdoor bunnies live shorter lives than indoor ones due to weather, risk of illness, heat, drafts and predators. Rabbits loose in yards are susceptible to poisonous plants, escaping into traffic or being caught by the neighborhood dogs, cats, wildlife or taken by others.
Danger Ten. Predators
Rabbits are prey animals; that is, they are the ones preyed on by the carnivorous animals (raccoons, dogs, wolves, cats). Raccoons have been known to scare a rabbit to death just by crawling over his cage, never making contact. Your rabbit depends on you to keep him safe. Most outdoor cages are not adequate to protect a bunny from predators. If you can't bring your rabbit indoors (the safest thing), make sure to have a double-enclosed cage, or put your bunny's cage inside a barn or dog run at night, to thwart any attempt of predators from crawling over the cage, or from folks opening the cage and taking your bunny.
Following the above suggestions will ensure your bunny is as safe as possible, and you may find he lives up to 12 years, thanks to your love and diligence.
Tuesday, June 17, 2014
Ryan Gosling (The Goose) Has An Adorable New Friend
Ryan Gosling is a goose who lives at an animal rescue in Northern California, where he's best friends with a goat named Hemingway.
Hemingway was six weeks old and covered in lice when he was found this past spring, having been left at Farm Sanctuary's front gate.
Ryan Gosling came to Farm Sanctuary via a Los Angeles animal shelter. Staff quickly realized that he had some joint problems that made it hard to move. He was also discovered to be an unusually friendly little goose who loves company -- especially people, and his quick buddy Hemingway.
At least for now. While at the moment this unlikely couple spend their days chewing the greenery and paddling in kiddie pools together, it's thought that Hemingway will eventually seek out other goats, while Ryan Gosling will flock to his fellow waterfowl.
Hemingway was six weeks old and covered in lice when he was found this past spring, having been left at Farm Sanctuary's front gate.
Ryan Gosling came to Farm Sanctuary via a Los Angeles animal shelter. Staff quickly realized that he had some joint problems that made it hard to move. He was also discovered to be an unusually friendly little goose who loves company -- especially people, and his quick buddy Hemingway.
Thursday, May 29, 2014
How to Protect Your Goats from Predators
If you're going to raise goats, you need to find out about common predators in your area. Don’t think that, because you're raising goats in the city, you don’t have to worry about predators. Although some of the animals that we traditionally think of as predators are rarely found in the city, dogs are rampant and birds abound. Kids are particularly at risk because they are small and lack life experience.
The best way to ensure that your goats are safe, especially if you don’t have a guardian animal, is to make sure that they're secured in a building with no open windows from dusk until dawn. Make sure the door closes and latches to prevent animals from getting in and goats from getting out.
Here are some of the more common goat predators to guard against:
Domestic or feral dogs: Dogs are the worst predators of goats, attacking and killing more often than any wild animal and doing it for fun rather than because they’re hungry. Dogs go after goats individually or in packs, with pack attacks being the worst.
Dogs dig under fences to get to goats. You can identify a dog attack because dogs usually go for a goat’s hind legs and rear end. Goats that are attacked by dogs often have to be euthanized.
Coyotes: Eastern coyotes hunt individually, looking for weak members of a herd; western coyotes hunt in packs. You can tell the difference between a coyote attack and a dog attack because dogs chase and try to get as many goats as they can, while coyotes go for the throat and then try to get at a goat’s internal organs. They may even try to carry the animal away for safe eating.
Cougars: Cougars hunt individually. They leave tooth punctures and claw marks on the upper torso when they attack a goat. They also have been known to drag their prey a distance away, bury it, and come back later to eat. A good livestock guardian dog will normally deter a cougar, unless it is very hungry.
If you live in an area with cougars, get more than one livestock guardian dog to protect your goats.
Birds: Ravens and black vultures sometimes attack goats, especially when goats are down from sickness or trying to have their kids outside. Ravens peck an animal’s head and gouge out its eyes. Ravens attack in groups, which causes a problem for does trying to protect more than one kid.
The USDA recommends hanging a vulture carcass (real or fake) to deter vultures. Owls, eagles, and large hawks also may bother small kids, especially if they get separated from their mothers and cry. You can prevent losses to all types of birds by making sure your goats have safe, indoor kidding pens.
Other predators: Wolves, bears, foxes, wild pigs, and even feral cats will go after goats if their regular food supply is disrupted. Humans are also predators on goats — some rustling for food, but others killing for the fun of it, or for some other misguided reason.
Don’t tether your goats. A tethered goat is bait for any predator that lives in the area. Instead of tethering your goats, build them a proper fence, or if you need to move them around, use cattle panel sections or electric wire to create a barrier that you can move from place to place during the day. And supervise them or get them a guardian for protection.
The best way to ensure that your goats are safe, especially if you don’t have a guardian animal, is to make sure that they're secured in a building with no open windows from dusk until dawn. Make sure the door closes and latches to prevent animals from getting in and goats from getting out.
Here are some of the more common goat predators to guard against:
Domestic or feral dogs: Dogs are the worst predators of goats, attacking and killing more often than any wild animal and doing it for fun rather than because they’re hungry. Dogs go after goats individually or in packs, with pack attacks being the worst.
Dogs dig under fences to get to goats. You can identify a dog attack because dogs usually go for a goat’s hind legs and rear end. Goats that are attacked by dogs often have to be euthanized.
Coyotes: Eastern coyotes hunt individually, looking for weak members of a herd; western coyotes hunt in packs. You can tell the difference between a coyote attack and a dog attack because dogs chase and try to get as many goats as they can, while coyotes go for the throat and then try to get at a goat’s internal organs. They may even try to carry the animal away for safe eating.
Cougars: Cougars hunt individually. They leave tooth punctures and claw marks on the upper torso when they attack a goat. They also have been known to drag their prey a distance away, bury it, and come back later to eat. A good livestock guardian dog will normally deter a cougar, unless it is very hungry.
If you live in an area with cougars, get more than one livestock guardian dog to protect your goats.
Birds: Ravens and black vultures sometimes attack goats, especially when goats are down from sickness or trying to have their kids outside. Ravens peck an animal’s head and gouge out its eyes. Ravens attack in groups, which causes a problem for does trying to protect more than one kid.
The USDA recommends hanging a vulture carcass (real or fake) to deter vultures. Owls, eagles, and large hawks also may bother small kids, especially if they get separated from their mothers and cry. You can prevent losses to all types of birds by making sure your goats have safe, indoor kidding pens.
Other predators: Wolves, bears, foxes, wild pigs, and even feral cats will go after goats if their regular food supply is disrupted. Humans are also predators on goats — some rustling for food, but others killing for the fun of it, or for some other misguided reason.
Don’t tether your goats. A tethered goat is bait for any predator that lives in the area. Instead of tethering your goats, build them a proper fence, or if you need to move them around, use cattle panel sections or electric wire to create a barrier that you can move from place to place during the day. And supervise them or get them a guardian for protection.
Wednesday, May 7, 2014
The Largest Type of Horse
The biggest horses in the world are draft breeds. These horses were bred to pull or carry large loads. Included in the draft breeds are the Shire, Percheron and Clydesdale. Before the use of trucks and tractors, draft horses pulled ploughs, wagons, street cars, barges and other farm implements and conveyances.
They are still used in some parts of the world, notably in North America, within Mennonite and Amish communities. Draft horses are the gentle giants of the horse world and “cold bloods” who have docile, stoic temperaments. Today, they are popular with those who enjoy driving, competing in heavy horse pulls, as well as making dependable, quiet riding horses.
Friday, April 11, 2014
Jamunapari - A Dairy Goat Breed in India
Jamunapari goat is a very beautiful dairy goat breed which was originated from India. This breed first introduced near a river of Uttar Pradesh named Jamuna. Since this breed is mostly known as Jamunapari goat. They are also known as some other names like Jamnapari, Ram Sagol etc. They become highly meat and milk productive and also very suitable for show. In India this goat breed is considered as the best dairy goat. They are one of the giant goat breeds with a pair of very long ear. The physical characteristics, feeding, housing, breeding and caring of Jamunapari goat are described below.
The body of this goat is comparatively long sized than other goats.
They are of white, black, yellow, brown or various mixed colored.
Long sized legs with long hair in the thigh and back legs.
Love to graze in the open field.
The tail of Jamunapari goat is short and typically curved upward.
Very long sized thin ears which are curved downwards.
Has a pair of small sized horns which are curved to backwards.
They produce one baby goat per year.
Female Jamunapari goat gives about 2-3 litter milk daily.
An adult male goat weights about 65-90 kg and an adult female goat weights about 40-60 kg.
Almost all goat has slightly brown spots in their mouth and neck.
The udder is comparatively capacious but pendulous and the teats are long.
The milk of Jamunapari goat is very tasty and healthy. And it contains about 5% fat.
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Benefits of Raising Dexter Cattle
Raising Dexter cattle is not something new. This type of cattle are an ancient breed. They are the smallest breed of cattle of British origin and are bred both for milk and for meat. They are predominantly black in color, but can also be red or dun. Dexters are a mountain breed, which means that they are particularly hardy and can survive in any environmental condition. The meat they produce is of excellent quality, has a good level of marbling, and is highly valued for its flavor and minimal waste.
Some farmers jokingly say that if you don't have a farm or a barn, you can keep a Dexter in your garden. Maybe not so, but the size and the temperament of this type of cattle really do make them suitable for small spaces. It used to be that cattle breeders thought that major breeds should be bred bigger and bigger. This necessitated having a property that was large enough for all those big cows. However, breeders have by now realized that bigger is not necessarily better and some have turned to raising Dexter cattle, a breed that does not require large properties but is equally profitable.
Because more calves mean more profits, raising Dexter cattle can be a particularly lucrative endeavor. Dexters typically live long lives and can be bred until the ages of 14 or 15. Considering that a Dexter can be bred from as early as a year old and through harsh weather conditions, this trait is a clear advantage over other breeds.
Raising Dexter cattle does not require large sums of money. First, the size of a Dexter means that it can be kept in a facility that does not have to be as strong and sturdy as those required by bigger and stronger breeds. Second, this type of cattle are not as susceptible to cattle diseases. This means that they rarely need to be attended to by a veterinarian. Third, they are highly intelligent and have a steady temperament, which means that they are not difficult to handle.
Another good reason for raising Dexter cattle is that Dexters are known as "easy calving cattle". This means that they can successfully give birth without assistance and that they rarely experience any birthing difficulties. Also, the rate of live births of this type of cattle is relatively high. Because of these characteristics, Dexter bulls are often used instead of valuable heifers of larger cattle for breeding. This almost always results in larger numbers of safe, unassisted births.
Raising Dexter cattle for either milk or meat can both be profitable. They are known as prolific milkers and produce a significantly higher milk yield than other breeds. Their milk is of very high quality and has high levels of protein and butterfat. The meat, on the other hand, has a pleasantly unique taste and texture that makes it suitable for boutique meat markets.
Tuesday, February 25, 2014
Animal Planet turns spotlight on India’s national animal Tiger
Animal Planet will bring the country’s attention on India’s majestic animal – tiger – with its special month-long programming initiative ‘Where Tigers Rule’. Bollywood actors Abhay Deol and Chitrangada Singh have joined the wildlife channel to create nationwide awareness on the threats to tigers’ survival and the acute role tigers play in balancing India’s ecosystem. The show will air every night at 8 PM from March 1 to 31, 2014.
With a few thousand tigers left in the wild, every small effort represents hope for their survival. From the breathtaking landscapes of Sundarbans to the magnificent forests of Ranthambore, ‘Where Tigers Rule’ provides an intimate look into the mysterious world of tigers. Featuring some of the leading tiger experts like Alphonse Roy, Valmik Thapar, Saba Douglas Hamilton, Dave Salmoni, Simon King, John Varty, Niall McCann, the programme showcases the elusive lifestyle of tigers and raises concern about the grave situation of the dwindling tiger population.
Through this engaging month-long line-up, Animal Planet highlights the secret lives of this private predator revealing its behaviour, predatory skills, conflict with humans, habitat destruction, poaching and conservation issues.
Rahul Johri, Senior VP and General Manager – South Asia and Head of Revenue, Pan Regional Ad Sales and Southeast Asia, Discovery Networks Asia-Pacific, said, “Tiger is a symbol of wildlife wealth of India and holds an irresistible fascination due to its secretive predatory nature. Its dwindling population is a matter of great concern. Animal Planet through its dedicated programming aims to help viewers understand and appreciate this majestic and endangered big cat.”
Abhay Deol commented, “The tiger is a supreme predator and is an indication of the well-being of our ecosystems. Saving the tiger is not just a choice, it’s our need. I am hopeful that my association with Animal Planet will help raise consciousness amongst audience in securing the future of this beautiful animal.”
Chitrangada Singh added, “We are left with very few tigers in the wild and if collective action is not taken, the most iconic animal could be wiped off the planet forever. Animal Planet’s ‘Where Tigers Rule’ is a wonderful initiative that will sensitise viewers to understand the importance of this charismatic cat.”
Now in its third year, ‘Where Tigers Rule’ has previously been supported by Ajay Devgn, Bipasha Basu and John Abraham. The cause also gained affiliation from Olympic gold medallist Abhinav Bindra, filmmaker Mike Pandey and conservationists Belinda Wright.
Some of the programmes in the line-up include:
‘Swamp Tiger’ documents the life of the most elusive of cats – the Royal Bengal Tiger of the Sundarbans. Using elaborate night-sight equipment sensitive to moon and stars, the viewers will watch never-seen-before sight of a female tiger covering a carcass with leaves just before dawn and many revelations that follow.
‘Tigers Next Door’ takes a look at an intimate portrait of Sita, an Indian tigress, and her cubs in the forest of Bandhavgarh in Central India. The film analyses political changes sweeping across the nation which could mean a better future for the locals and tigers alike.
‘India – Kingdom of the Tiger’ is a historical epic depicting India from 1910 to the modern era. The film chronicles life of Jim Corbett, the famed English hunter-naturalist, as he races to save an Indian village from the terror of a man-eating tiger.
Naturalist and filmmaker John Varty and zoologist David Salmoni are the ultimate friends of these beautiful animals. ‘Living With Tigers’ follows their dynamic and ambitious programme which has been developed to reintroduce captive tigers into the wild.
‘Tiger, Hunting for a Home’ looks at some of the issues concerning the plight of tigers and how their existence or extinction impacts life around them.
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
INDIA CLEANS UP DIRTY ANIMAL TESTING METHODS
Last year, #India put an end to #animal testing for cosmetics, and now they’re on their way to becoming the second country to ban #animal testing for household products, such as cleaners and detergents.
With much help from PETA #India, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) decided to stop skin sensitization tests that involve rubbing harsh chemicals on #guinea #pigs’ shaved skin, and instead use non-animal testing methods including skin patch tests on humans.
#India decided to end #animal testing for household products after an extensive campaign by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) India, which included appeals from high-profile politicians, as well as lengthy discussions with #PETA India’s scientist and support from PETA scientists in the U.S. and the U.K.
The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) committee responsible for determining testing requirements for household products, on which PETA India’s scientist has an official seat, decided in a meeting today to replace a skin sensitization test—which is currently performed by rubbing harsh chemicals into guinea pigs’ shaved skin—with non-animal testing methods followed by human skin patch tests. This move will end all #animal poisoning test requirements for cleaners, detergents and other common household products in India.
This progress comes after India’s June 2013 decision, following PETA India’s campaign, to end tests on #animals for cosmetics and their ingredients, and makes India the second country, following Israel, to end tests on #animals for household products. It also comes on the heels of bans on cosmetics testing on #animals in the European Union and Israel.
PETA India is now working to urge the Indian government to ban the sale of all animal-tested cosmetics and household products.
Monday, January 13, 2014
In New York, the Age of Horse and Buggy Has Passed (Op-Ed)
Mayor Bill de Blasio recently presented a plan to ban #horse-drawn carriages, an action that has led to an outpouring of discussion about whether or not the #carriages are a treasured tradition or a burden on the #animals in service.
The Humane Society of the United States supports the mayor's plan, and we call on the New York City Council to support his effort — and to reject the obstructionist tactics and phony arguments of the so-called Alliance for Truth.
The idea of banning the #horse-drawn #carriages — which are not used for point-to-point travel, but for sight-seeing in and around Central Park — has long been backed by the major #animal welfare groups, including The HSUS and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), which have voluntarily spent considerable resources in an attempt to oversee street and stable conditions for the #horses.
And, there have been dozens of documented accidents resulting in injuries and deaths of New York City's #carriage #horses through the years: #Horses may be easily spooked by vehicles or other loud noises and put themselves and others at risk by dashing into traffic.
The HSUS will continue to work with New Yorkers for Clean, Livable and Safe Streets (NYCLASS) to pass Int. 86a, legislation that would phase out #horse carriages and replace them with eco-friendly antique replica cars. Passage of the law would also bolster the local tourist economy by giving current carriage drivers the opportunity to drive electric, antique, replica "Horseless Carriages" — a win-win solution that protects both jobs and the safety and welfare of #horses and people in New York City. Other great global cities do without horse-drawn carriages, including Beijing, London and Paris.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)